Volume I –
Patternmaking
English edition now available in the Shop.
- Setting up the workplace for uppermaking
- Dress code tips for shoemakers
- Design, Copyright and legal considerations
- Design using the golden ratio
- Tools and aids for patternmaking
- The Geometric Patternmaking system
- Different last copying methods (paper, wax, foil)
- Classic footwear Standard formes and your own designs
- Considerations when using orthopedic: inserts, upper padding and counters
- Correctly determining the critical measuring points
- Considerations when designing the position of the Derby facings
- Distributing the leg circumference measurements for boots
- Test Uppers from synthetic materials and leather
- Detailed (sectional) patterns
- Special features: tongues, aprons and heel caps
- Classic shoe styles – Derby shoes and boots, Oxford, Balmoral, Single and Double Monk Strap, Loafers, Lace to Toe, Sneakers
- And much more
Volume I of our textbooks focuses on patternmaking. Comprehensive but easy to understand, we explain in detail the patternmaking and design of uppers comprising 300 pages in A4 format with 400 photos, 200 drawings and 44 illustrations from historical shoemaking technical manuals.
The book covers a wide range of topics, from setting up a workshop to making sectional patterns. We explain several methods to make well-fitting patterns, including with large orthopaedic inserts. We present the most important, classic shoe styles, go into the tools required for patternmaking and teach everything you need to know in order to create your own designs.
Pattern
Collection
English edition now available in the Shop.
- Nine complete pattern sets* – Over 100 drawings in total!
- Derby – Derby cap toe boot – Single monk – Oxford full brogue -Sneaker – Lace to toe- Court Shoes / High Heels – Chelsea boot – Penny Loafer
- Booklet with tips and instructions for the individual upper patterns
- Special chapter on making uppers for Court Shoes / High Heels
- Templates for Velcro fastenings
- Templates for sewing exercises
- stitch density(length) template
*Due to format requirements, the patterns are slightly reduced in size.
The pattern collection is a supplement to the textbook: “Uppermaking for Bespoke and Orthopedic Shoemakers – Volume I”.
The nine pattern sets were designed on original Spenlé lasts. The templates are intended to help you understand and implement the concepts of upper construction, and designing of footwear uppers found in our textbooks, more easily. The patterns also contain all the necessary considerations when designing their many variations, and other related patterns, yourself, and converting them into well-fitting upper styles.
The pattern collection comes in attractive cardboard packaging, which perfectly matches our textbooks in terms of design and size.
Our collection sewing pattern (right) matches the textbooks perfectly in design and size.
Nice cardboard packaging in the same design and size as the textbooks.
Nine complete pattern sets with Standarts and all detailed pattern.
Detailed pattern templates with the necessary guidelines
For technically correct cutting, arrows on the detailed models indicate the optimal pulling direction in the leather.
Pattern templates with the necessary guidelines
Templates for Velcro fastenings and four Templates for sewing exercises
The templates can also be used to produce 3D models of the uppers
Volume II –
Materials science & craftsmanship
Currently in progress, therefore not yet available.
Planned topics are:
- Tanning – by Marc Lahnstein, Master Leather Technologist (LGR)
- Leather types for uppers
- Salmon leather – an alternative to snakeskin
- Using Cordovan with tips for further processing
- Vegan and Synthetic materials
- Upcycling from bags, coats, car seats or furniture to uppers
- Padding materials
- Special features when designing uppers for diabetics
- Knife sharpening
- Clicking
- Splitting and skiving machines and skived edges
- Edge treatment (folding, beading, piping, binding)
- Sewing machines, needles and thread and hand sewn seams
- Step by step instructions for closing a Derby shoe upper
- Fasteners (eyelets, hooks, velcro, zippers, etc.)
- Decorative punching (Tools and template making)
- blocking vamps for Chelsea Boots
- One piece, Haferlschuh & Whole Cut styles
- And much more
Subject to change
The planned contents of Volume II have been updated and offer readers an even wider range of topics than originally planned. Volume II of our textbooks will be a cornucopia of knowledge about leather, textiles and other materials and how to use them. We explain how to sharpen knives, how to cut out (clicking), how to use sharpening, splitting and sewing machines, how to block vamps for Chelsea boots, how to create templates for decorative punching patterns or hand sewn seams, how to fit zippers and much more.